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Capers, an Essential Ingredient in Mallorcan Cuisine

written by Es Príncep / October 23, 2023

It's neither a fruit nor a seed. A caper is the bud of the flower from a plant called "taparera" in Mallorca. In 2015, capers were added to the Catalog of Traditional Balearic Foods, where they now share the stage with other culinary treasures of Mallorca, such as the island's wines, oils, sweet herbs, "palo" liqueur, "sobrasada" (a type of sausage), and almonds, among others.

The taparera is a shrub that can live for several years. In winter, it withers to the point of looking dead, but the deeply buried roots remain alive, awaiting the arrival of warmer weather.

When June arrives, extending through September, it's time to harvest the fruits, the "tàperes" or capers. Harvesting capers used to be a task primarily for women and one of the toughest jobs in the fields, as it requires working hunched over during hot periods and dealing with a very thorny plant. The best time to collect them is at dawn when the flower buds are still hardened from the night, making it less likely to get pricked by the thorns that surround the leaves.

Capers in Vinegar, a Classic

You don't need extensive culinary knowledge to preserve capers in vinegar. In fact, it's a straightforward process. After harvesting, you need to separate the bud - knowing it's not actually a fruit - from the thorns and leaves and let them sit for at least three hours in a cool, dry place to reduce moisture.

Next, place them in a basin or container with water and salt, and they should remain there for a week. After this time, remove the water and repeat the process for another week, aiming to dilute and remove the characteristic bitterness of raw capers. Once these fifteen days are over, prepare a solution with three-quarters vinegar, one part water, and salt, and stir well to mix.

Then, simply place the capers in a glass jar with the resulting liquid and ensure the lid is tightly closed. You can store it in the pantry and start using them after fifteen days. When you open the jar, it's advisable to keep it in the refrigerator.

This brine allows capers to last a long time and gradually develop a much richer flavor.

The Culinary Uses of Capers

And, of course, using capers in the kitchen gives dishes a distinct touch deeply rooted in Mallorca, but with historical origins.

The Greeks and Romans used capers as a seasoning or ingredient in many of their dishes. In fact, the Romans were fond of using capers to flavor their fish and meat dishes.

One of the most famous recipes is pork or beef tongue with capers, one of the oldest dishes on the island. To create the famous sauce that accompanies the meat, a base of sautéed onions and tomatoes, part of the broth in which the tongue is boiled with other vegetables, and capers are used. The result is tender meat with a unique, slightly tangy flavor that makes it truly special.

But capers aren't limited to just this dish. They can be found in salads, such as the famous Mallorcan trampó, in "pa amb oli" (bread with oil) with all its accompanying ingredients, in vinaigrettes for baking fish, or in light snacks enjoyed with a soft drink, a beer, or a glass of wine.

If you'd like to learn more about typical Mallorcan ingredients, you can visit this entry.

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